2011-2013 Toyota Corolla Dome Light fuse keeps blowing

[Lewis]

If you have a complaint of the Interior Dome light is not working and the Remote KeyFob also doesn't work, then check the 10 amp Dome light fuse located in the fuse box under the hood, along the drivers side fender. Here is what you are looking for...

If you look closely, it will most likely be blown open and will do so again immediately if you insert a new fuse. This is because the wiring harness that runs from the drivers side junction box and up the A pillar to the Dome light itself is shorted internally and needs to be replaced.

You can disconnect the dome light harness at the drivers side junction box, located behind the lower dash panel where the drivers knees would be if they were sitting in the drivers seat. When you remove that lower dash panel, this is the plug you would disconnect to stop the fuse from blowing...

 

[Jesica M.]

Thank you so much for this!!!!!! All of a sudden I found the my remote FOB stopped working for my keyless entry system was no longer working and I did a bunch of searching for the problem and what it could be, I pulled out my multimeter and started to test all my fuse under my hood to find that the dome fuse was giving me a negative reading one way and open reading the other using diode test setting which told me something was wrong with that fuse. I then did more searching and found this post in which it described my problem perfectly as I replaced the dome fuse and it blew as I was installing the replacement one.
I found that that I could remove this little box (by opening it and pulling up hard to get it to unclick) that I could easily access the dome light wiring harness to disconnect it (I just left mine disconnected after using a set of narrow pliers to pull it out lol) was then able to replace my fuse and my car remote started to work again!!!

 

[Dom]

This was exactly my situation and it worked. How difficult and expensive is it to run a new wire harness? Does it have to be ran to the dome light from the panel under the dash?

 

[Jesus]

Can I just disconnect it, replace the fuse then reconnect it. Will this fix the issue or do i have to somehow run new wire??

 

[Mike.B.]

Can I just disconnect it, replace the fuse then reconnect it. Will this fix the issue or do i have to somehow run new wire??

Hello, I have similar problem on a 2012 Corolla L. I replaced the battery few months ago and since then the dome lights and FOB remote stopped working. Recently I noticed the cigarette lighter stopped working. I replaced the dome light fuse and it everything started working again. Then I removed the panels around the cigarette lighter and noticed its power cable was disconnected! Nobody had touched that are in past several years! I reconnected the wire and the dome light fuse blew again. I tried another fuse and it blew with a small spark. I do not understand the relation between the cigarette lighter and the dome light fuse and how to fix the issue. Thanks you.

 

[Rocky]

If you have a complaint of the Interior Dome light is not working and the Remote KeyFob also doesn't work, then check the 10 amp Dome light fuse located in the fuse box under the hood, along the drivers side fender. Here is what you are looking for...

If you look closely, it will most likely be blown open and will do so again immediately if you insert a new fuse. This is because the wiring harness that runs from the drivers side junction box and up the A pillar to the Dome light itself is shorted internally and needs to be replaced.

You can disconnect the dome light harness at the drivers side junction box, located behind the lower dash panel where the drivers knees would be if they were sitting in the drivers seat. When you remove that lower dash panel, this is the plug you would disconnect to stop the fuse from blowing...

Thanks Lewis! You fixed my car

 

[Duroy]

Same problem with my 2011 Corolla. This fix worked. Now to figure out where the short is in the dome light.

 

[Cesar]

Thank a lot, it worked, of course the internal lights doesnt work until i change the harness or adrresed the short circuit, but it was really helpful so thanks a lot

 

[hubcapuber]

Can I just disconnect it, replace the fuse then reconnect it. Will this fix the issue or do i have to somehow run new wire??

I got these and stuck one on top of the old dome light.

 

[Rob]

If you have a complaint of the Interior Dome light is not working and the Remote KeyFob also doesn't work, then check the 10 amp Dome light fuse located in the fuse box under the hood, along the drivers side fender. Here is what you are looking for...

If you look closely, it will most likely be blown open and will do so again immediately if you insert a new fuse. This is because the wiring harness that runs from the drivers side junction box and up the A pillar to the Dome light itself is shorted internally and needs to be replaced.

You can disconnect the dome light harness at the drivers side junction box, located behind the lower dash panel where the drivers knees would be if they were sitting in the drivers seat. When you remove that lower dash panel, this is the plug you would disconnect to stop the fuse from blowing...

 

[Rob]

Thanks for you post. Awesome stuff

 

[MG]

Thanks for you post. Awesome stuff

Thanks! Also please consider supporting us if you would like us to be able to help other Toyota Owners.

 

[Scott]

This thread continues. So, there are at least three circuits connected to the 10 amp fuse(#27, DOME) found in the junction box under the hood that folks in this thread report blowing. The lost functions noted are 1) interior dome and personal "map" light, 2) remotes(door control receiver module) and 3) the trunk light. There may be other lost functions/circuits, but I have been unable to determine what they might be. My situation with a 2011 Toyota Corolla was the lost function and the discovery of the blown fuse. An attempt to replace the fuse resulted in an immediate blown replacement fuse. With the help of this thread, the harness to the dome/personal light was unplugged. Now, a replaced fuse remains functional with return of remote function and trunk light. So, does anyone have an idea why a static wiring harness, i.e. along its course there are no portions subject to recurrent movement or flexing, would spontaneously develop a short in it? I would like to have my interior lights back, but I am not excited about removing the headliner, Lt anterior pillar molding and components of the left side of the dash to gain the needed access to the course of the wiring culprit. Thanks.

 

[Trey]

@Scott I am having the EXACT same problem with a 2011 Corolla S and also don't want to tear down the whole thing. Looking for a solution that returns factory functionality without complete replacement. Ideally would like to know where the short is in all of our cars so I can just replace that. It's clearly a factory issue.

 

[Junior]

If you have a complaint of the Interior Dome light is not working and the Remote KeyFob also doesn't work, then check the 10 amp Dome light fuse located in the fuse box under the hood, along the drivers side fender. Here is what you are looking for...

If you look closely, it will most likely be blown open and will do so again immediately if you insert a new fuse. This is because the wiring harness that runs from the drivers side junction box and up the A pillar to the Dome light itself is shorted internally and needs to be replaced.

You can disconnect the dome light harness at the drivers side junction box, located behind the lower dash panel where the drivers knees would be if they were sitting in the drivers seat. When you remove that lower dash panel, this is the plug you would disconnect to stop the fuse from blowing...

Can I connect my led lights to this so they can work with the dome lights so everytime I open the door the leds turn on with the dome light
If yes which one is the negative and which one is the positive

 

[Rifat]

This thread continues. So, there are at least three circuits connected to the 10 amp fuse(#27, DOME) found in the junction box under the hood that folks in this thread report blowing. The lost functions noted are 1) interior dome and personal "map" light, 2) remotes(door control receiver module) and 3) the trunk light. There may be other lost functions/circuits, but I have been unable to determine what they might be. My situation with a 2011 Toyota Corolla was the lost function and the discovery of the blown fuse. An attempt to replace the fuse resulted in an immediate blown replacement fuse. With the help of this thread, the harness to the dome/personal light was unplugged. Now, a replaced fuse remains functional with return of remote function and trunk light. So, does anyone have an idea why a static wiring harness, i.e. along its course there are no portions subject to recurrent movement or flexing, would spontaneously develop a short in it? I would like to have my interior lights back, but I am not excited about removing the headliner, Lt anterior pillar molding and components of the left side of the dash to gain the needed access to the course of the wiring culprit. Thanks.

 

[Alex Sokol]

Hello, Scott!
I have the same exact problem as you did with my Toyota corolla 2012.
I know it is may be a bit late, but I would like to find out how did you solve your problem?
Did you end up removing the headliner or diagnosed the problem without removing the headliner?
Can you share your tips, if you don't mind, please, thank you!

 

[Alex Sokol]

This thread continues. So, there are at least three circuits connected to the 10 amp fuse(#27, DOME) found in the junction box under the hood that folks in this thread report blowing. The lost functions noted are 1) interior dome and personal "map" light, 2) remotes(door control receiver module) and 3) the trunk light. There may be other lost functions/circuits, but I have been unable to determine what they might be. My situation with a 2011 Toyota Corolla was the lost function and the discovery of the blown fuse. An attempt to replace the fuse resulted in an immediate blown replacement fuse. With the help of this thread, the harness to the dome/personal light was unplugged. Now, a replaced fuse remains functional with return of remote function and trunk light. So, does anyone have an idea why a static wiring harness, i.e. along its course there are no portions subject to recurrent movement or flexing, would spontaneously develop a short in it? I would like to have my interior lights back, but I am not excited about removing the headliner, Lt anterior pillar molding and components of the left side of the dash to gain the needed access to the course of the wiring culprit. Thanks.

Hello, Scott!
I have the same exact problem as you did with my Toyota corolla 2012.
I know it is may be a bit late, but I would like to find out how did you solve your problem?
Did you end up removing the headliner or diagnosed the problem without removing the headliner?
Can you share your tips, if you don't mind, please, thank you!

 

[Pawel Socha]

Hello, Scott!
I have the same exact problem as you did with my Toyota corolla 2012.
I know it is may be a bit late, but I would like to find out how did you solve your problem?
Did you end up removing the headliner or diagnosed the problem without removing the headliner?
Can you share your tips, if you don't mind, please, thank you!

I actually found the issue to be a pinched wire next to the map light install. I also noticed it is easy to pinch wires near the dome light install. Check these locations for pinched wires and you will find the wire harness problem

 

[Alex Sokol]

I actually found the issue to be a pinched wire next to the map light install. I also noticed it is easy to pinch wires near the dome light install. Check these locations for pinched wires and you will find the wire harness problem

Hello! Pawel Socha, I found a pinch wire next to map light, fixed it and it works again with no blowing fuse. Thank you so much! You made my day!